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4wdRustler

Here are the updates for the 4wdRustler project. Accounts are in reverse chronologial order.

9/17/04 - Phase II Pictures / Comments

I was very excited about installing the EVX from my Emaxx, and using the cheap Permax motors. Using 19/90 gearing, this was very fast. It was close to 30mph, although no GPS. Very torquey. First run went great. Second run lasted only about 10 minutes before the rear motor failed. This caused a severe glitch that ran the 4wdRustler right into a neighbors garage door (damaging the door!).

I would not recommend using this motor at 19/90 gearing.

I decided to go with Traxxas Titan motors geared 19/90, and I have about 5 runs in on this setup. Its not quite as fast as the Permax motors, but everything runs very cool. All of the great handling characteristics of the previous setups, but now using relatively inexpensive non-rebuildable motors, and running a lot cooler.

Phase II includes the use of some optional mounting holes on a new front plate. This new plate allows the use of either 4" or 3.5" shocks.

Coming up in Phase III is making this dual Brushless. I just recieved the Master Car Sport Controller (Thanks Cliff!) that I needed to go with the one I already own. Now I just need another Lehner 5300 and we'll be good to go!

Another future mod worth considering would be a custom chassis that allows for the 2 packs to lay down (lower CG).

8/20/04 - Phase I buildup

Everybody should have one of these. I've toyed with the idea of making a 4x4 for a long time. Lots of folks have done the Stampede 4x4 conversion before, but I had never even heard of a 4x4 Rustler (apparently it has been done before though!)

The concept is very simple. Find a way to attach a transmission to the front of the vehicle, and find a way to make the steering work. I would dare say this is quite a bit easier on the Rustler than the Stampede. On the stampede, you've got a choice of an entire new chassis, or a very weak extension to the chassis. On the Rustler, since the whole chassis is flat on the bottom, it makes it fairly easy to attach a plate that extends the chassis, yet is very strongly mounted. We're already setup to work with this 2" wide aluminum, so making the plate was extremely simple.

Angling the front transmission back encroaches on the top plate some. The topplate must be cut back around a half-inch or so to make room. See the closeup below:

Setting up the steering was the only real challenge, and not much of one at that. It so happens that Devestator2k makes some hardcore C-Hubs just for this purpose. They attach onto rear arms (now on the front), and allow for the mounting of the standard, or upgrade (RPM) rear carriers. These are intricate handmade parts, that require a lot of cuts. As such, they sell at around $60. You can email Mike at his website, DefianceRacing. These parts are not listed on the website currently.

The bearing carriers are simply turned 90 degrees to become steering knuckles. The lower hole must be trimmed off or it will not fit inside the new C-Hub. 78mm links are used for the steering and 90mm for the camberlinks.

The rear arms are turned around, to allow the use of the stock shock mounting holes. At first I attempted to simply lean the shocks all the way back to the shock tower. This created a lot of friction on the shock shafts, and is completely unusable. If you could attach a properly angled mount (or better yet a ball) on the shock tower, you could lay the shocks back. Another way to "fix" the shock setup is to extend the top mount out about 1.625". You want to extend the top mount just enough so that the shock can line up with the arm and not be flexed out toward the front at all.

Extending the mounts like that allow for never-before-seen leverage on the shock tower. Way too much flex. This plate was added in order to stiffen everything up. Simple and brutally effective. Soon this plate will be replaced with one that has some lower mount points on it. Then a 3.5" shock can be used, which will be perfect for the front end.

There are two major chioces for the powerplant on a two motor 4x4 project. You can do a 7.2v system or a 14.4v system (you can also pick somewhere in between, but that would use the 7.2v equipment). The 7.2v system is likely to be powered by a Novak Super Rooster, or similar two-motor ESC. The Novak EVX is a widely available choice for dual 550 sized 14.4v motors such as the Titan.

I didn't want the weight (and cost) of two packs, so I elected to do two 540 motors (Speed Gem Pro Titantites) in a 7.2v system. They were run by the ever-popular Super Rooster ESC, and one 7 or 8 cell pack. This setup is brutally fast for a brushed setup, but the batteries do not like it. After a full run, the batts were over 180 degrees. The ESC was 145 and the rear motor 200.

While I am touching on the subject of performance, let me say how fun this stuck is, even in its prototype stages. Massive traction compared to the 2wd truck. It has the ability to go full throttle in just about any situation, and the backend still wont bust loose. Just trying to take off in a straight line with a fast 2wd truck is a real challenge. Not with this guy. Still no dirt testing however. Should be fun.

One way to combat the battery heat issue is to run parallel packs. This did increase the weight quite a bit, but performance increased marginally. Two batteries can deliver twice the amperage of one pack, and huge spikes of amperage are needed to change speed quickly (the fun stuff). When run in parallel, the packs were near ambient temperature! Quite an improvement.

Now being forced into the heavy-two pack configuration, the next logical step is to go ahead and try out the 14.4v system. This will be accomplished shortly. The EVX and Permax Multiplex motors have already arrived! These permax motors are only 8.49 on tower. They are reported to be slightly stronger than the Titan. Not for use with 14 cells though, smoke is sure to roll. Thats fine, since its really hard to fit more than 12 cells on a Rustler anyway.

Thats about all there is to tell at this point. I will be sure to post up what happens when I go 14.4v on this sucker.

 

 


Here she is after the Version I build-up. Closeup of the Devestator2k C-Hubs


Closeup of front attachment for conversion-plate to chassis Closeup of steering setup. The angle isn't perfect, but seems to be working well. A 90mm camberlink is used. While the steering link is a stock Traxxas 78mm piece used on the rear camber link.


Shock mount extension. Aluminum spacers, plus a plastic washer. The shock cap is riding on a very skinny nylon spacer that threads over the large #6 bolt. More Nylon standoffs (#6) used to make a very tall battery holddown. Its not finished, but it will be mostly as shown.


Closeup of front stiffening plate (Version 1.0). After extending the shock mount, there was too much flex in the shock tower. This simple plate almost completely eliminated the flex. It passed a little flex on to the tower/tranny connection point.

Version 2.0 of the plate will feature multiple shock mounting locations. If all goes well, it will be available in an anodized finish.

A totally "side" benefit of this plate is that it can be used to help with a rear quad-shock setup.

Version 2.0 (pictured at the top of this page) can be purchased in the Swami-RC Store

The Magic Plate. Actually very simple in design. This is version 1.0. Version 2.0 is ready for testing. It moves the front tranny holes about 1/8" closer to the front chassis holes. This will raise up the lowest point in the chassis (right at the angle bend), and straighten out the steering geometry some. Version 3.0 will include a bumper mount (of some kind) for the front.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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